Various February "stuff"

Just arrived at the office where the temperature appears to be close to 80. Everyone is always cold here...except me! 

On the walk here this morning I passed many older men along the way and realized that I have never seen any men over 40 something working anywhere except at the municipality, the post office or the police force.  All the shops, restaurants, taxis etc. seem to be operated by women and young men.  No point to this but it did strike me as odd.  Several of the women here I work with have told me that their husbands are not currently working.  I guess with an unemployment rate over 30% that fact should not be surprising.

There is a bridge over the river, right in front of the municipality building (“city hall”), is the gathering spot for the men from the Roma community.  There are always several groups of men their talking, smoking, etc. …every day, all day. At times there will be a car with the doors open and music playing.  This morning there were probably seven different groups of 5 or 6 as it is a bright sunny day.  Many of the men here do not own cars and this gathering spot is conveniently located at the base of a hill that is home to most of the Roma population.  Again, no point to this, just another observation.

I had visitors from my old village two weekends back.  Goce and Yugoslav drove out from Romanovce for a visit with me and also to look up some of their old university friends.  We drove up a long mountain road to a small ski area.  Only two trails, one for novices and one more challenging short run make up the entire resort.  Both trails are serviced by t-bar lifts.  There is also a small hotel with a big “lodge like” restaurant and we decided to have a meal there. 

 The guys did all the ordering and we had a long, leisurely meal accompanied by two carafes of “hot Rakia”.  This is the same home brewed alcohol that is so popular here but served hot.  It is quite different.  Sugar and sometimes other ingredients such as honey are added and it arrives very hot. … it was strong and quite good.  Two of the young guys had an “after dinner” wine and one a beer.  Not an unusual thing here at all.  I passed on that part having finished three glasses of the Rakia. 

On the return trip, we stopped at the home of another friend from school.  Of course, food and drinks were immediately on the table in front of us.  Not wanting to appear rude, (and a little hungry again) I did sample what was offered and had a couple of shots of Mastika, the other favorite local home brew. This one has an anise flavor and is a lot like Ouzo.  By the time we left that home, I had consumed more alcohol on that day than in the entire 5 months I had been here.  As the young men prepared for a night on the town, I decided to be dropped off at my place and they obliged. After all, it was nearly 10PM!!!  Ahh, to be young again!  Thinking about it now, I really did not have all that much to drink and it was over a long period of time.  I guess I am just plain out of shape!  I will train before returning home!

Yugi, the young man in the photo with me here, received some very good news last week.  He was offered and accepted a new job in Skopje, at twice his current salary. 

It is a Russian run power company and he is a trained electrician.  He said that over 100 had originally applied and because of his qualifications and knowledge, he was selected for second interviews with four others who were also qualified.  He thinks his English language skills landed him the job.  He has taught himself a lot of English and is quite good at it.  He is an ambitious young man who is now studying Russian. (although the cute teacher has something to do with that I think).  Anyway it was good to see someone here get ahead especially a quality young man like this. He takes good care of his mother, works their land and I am sure the new salary will be put to good use.  Maybe he will even trade in his red Lada!!!

This past weekend a friend from training came to Kocani and stayed at my place for the weekend.  Robert is from Texas, a dentist in his early 50’s and another genuine good guy.  He has two sons in the Army as well as a daughter.  He raised them as a single dad too! We were joined by a young volunteer from a nearby town on both Friday and Saturday night and we shared a few bottles of Macedonian wine.  Nothing special but it was real nice just having someone to talk to in English.  He is having a similar experience to mine is his town, where he also is assigned to the municipality.  Neither of us seem to have found our niche or purpose just yet.  We shared our frustration and the opportunity to gripe to someone in a similar situation was good therapy.  We both agreed to give it time.  My English classes are  helping fill that gap but I hope to find more purposeful work soon.

On the following weekend, I travelled to Vinica, a city only 10K or so from here.  Only a 30 denari (60 cent) bus ride to fellow volunteer Elena’s.  She invited me to dinner on Friday night. Bethany, another of the many young volunteers here, was spending the weekend with Elena and we all enjoyed a good meal.  Mashed potatoes for the first time since arriving and chicken.  Elena is just 22 years old, wise beyond her years, and she served us a great meal.  We even had a salad and brownie cupcakes for desert.  Having just sons, it was an interesting evening talking with two young ladies.  Only a 200 den cab ride for the return trip too!  Such a deal!

I had been feeling lousy on Thursday and early Friday but thought it had passed when I headed out to Vinica.  Unfortunately, Saturday came and I felt like I had been run over by a truck.  I laid around, napping on and off all day.  I only ventured out briefly to get a few things I needed to eat.  Sunday was more of the same and by Monday I was feeling a lot better.  I do have to start eating better for sure!

It is now another weekend and I actually do have “stuff” to do.  A council member recently published a book of poetry and there is a reading tonight at the local culture center.  I received an invite through the municipality and even though I will not understand a word, I will attend.

On Saturday evening, my counterpart (she is the person arranged by the Peace Corp to be their main contact and mine at the office) has invited me to her home for her middle son’s birthday.  I have met her husband many times and I am sure this will be a good night.  Earlier that same day, I am heading to Stip for lunch with another volunteer celebrating his birthday. 

Sunday I head to a volunteer's place in a nearby village for diner.  Unlike most of us, he is living with a family and they have been asking me to dinner for weeks.  They saw me on the local TV and want to meet the older American”.  CJ, their tenant, is only 25. 

Holidays and Traditions

January is a month filled with holidays here in Macedonia and so far there has been at least one every week. The first holiday is Orthodox Christmas which is celebrated on January 7^Th and followed a week later by "Old New Year".  

For the traditional Christmas, I returned to Romanovce for a visit with the Angelovskis, my host family.  It was great to see them again and spend time in their home.(and have some good home cooked food again)  On Christmas Eve their tradition is to eat while seated on the floor.  There are blessings  and thanks for the food, the animals, the crops and the people which is followed by a meat and dairy free meal.  To begin the meal, there is a traditional sharing of bread with each person taking a piece and one dedicated to God.  One section contains a gold coin that is a sign of good fortune for the upcoming year for the person who gets it.  This year, the coin was in the piece designated to “God”.  Very nice old traditions and I was happy that the family had invited me to participate.   I returned the next day for a grand meal ...meat and dairy now included.   When it was time to leave I was presented with homemade wine, bread, candy, stuffed cabbage,  etc.  I am told this is just traditional and will happen whenever I visit.  I must visit more often!!! 

There is another interesting holiday in January on the 19^Th, celebrating the baptism of Jesus.  In my city, the event is marked by an event at the river that runs through the center of town.  A temporary dam is constructed interrupting the flow so that the culvert fills to the edge of the river banks.  What takes place at ten in the morning here is the "throwing of the cross."  It appeared that just about every resident of the city was [present lining the shores of the river.  As several of the orthodox “popes” arrive in a procession from the church there is music, most likely Orthodox hymns, playing over the loudspeaker system set up at a podium on one of the many bridges across the river.  Following a short ceremony of prayers and blessings and reading of many names, a small wooden cross is tossed into the river.  The young men lining the river bank then dive or jump into the icy river in a frantic effort to retrieve the crucifix.   (see the photos).  The lucky man to get the cross is not only purported to be blessed with good fortune for the entire year,  there are other motivating factors as well.  He (yes, only males participated)  also received a television, and gold necklace from the mayor, and an undetermined amount of cash.  He and his friends then take the cross and blessed water through the crowd that has gathered at the center.  Each person is offered an opportunity to kiss the cross, gets sprinkled with the water and they then make an offering.  The young man gets to keep the "offering" also.  I would say it is a very bountiful day for the successful retriever.

 

This past week I helped out with the recording of a CD that will be used in English language lessons for security students at a university in Skopje.  Six of us participated and it was actually a lot of fun.  My voice will remain here long after I am gone!!!   The big bonus that went along with this trip to the capital was that I was able to go to the UPS office and retrieve a package .  I had ordered a Kindle in December and it was finally here in the country.  The issue was that UPS could not find me in Kocani after repeated efforts.   I did manage to find them with the help of a volunteer living in Skopje and retrieved the package.  I now have absolutely no excuses if I don’t read a lot of books while here.

 

I have my first meeting with my “students” next week as my work will finally begin.  There are currently 25 or so employees of the municipality signed up for my English language classes.  The first task will be to determine how to divide this group into three smaller classes of somewhat comparable language skills.  I have devised a test that I hope will do just that.

I am looking forward to starting the lessons even though teaching is entirely new to me.  Fortunately, I have grown very comfortable in front of groups in my old age and will at the very least have some fun doing this.   I have also been asked to participate in the English language classes the will be offered to the general public.  The teachers from the local schools will be in charge of this and I will simply contribute whatever they request.   These “jobs” are both later in the day or evening so it appears I am to be employed on the "second shift"!  Anyway,  I look forward to being “busy”