A new home, the job...and the Holidays!

I have been a living and working here in Kocani for just over four weeks. My apartment is on what the peace Corp referred to as the "fourth" floor.  However, the first two levels have very high ceilings, the first level is home to a bank but I don’t know what is on the second level.  Based on a comparison to surrounding residential structures, I am at the least five, closer to six flights up.  Eighty six steps by the last count and I seem to count them every time while making the climb.  Feeling good until the last two legs (flights) of the trip usually, and then I wonder... why me?  I guess I will know when I am in shape by that milepost.  The real test is shopping and I am now careful just how much I buy.  Not so much in cash or the number of items, simply in how much will this stuff weigh! 

Fortunately, I am conveniently located just a short walk to my work and right in the center of town.  The apartment, on the other hand has seen better days, as the photos will attest.  Great views though! 

The landlord is the former mayor of the city and is also a dentist.  He is an extremely nice man who has responded immediately both times my heat gave out!   Just last week, he and his handyman were here fixing the big electric unit pictured here. 

They proceeded to make 6 trips up and down the stairs to get various parts for the job.  I was amazed at the stamina of both men as neither seemed a bit winded after all the climbing.  Made me feel kind of guilty complaining, as they are not much younger than I am.

  My “work” is yet to be defined but is beginning to come into view.  I have a spot in an office, go in each day, and I attend several meetings.  My gracious and understanding counterpart, Anika, allows me to accompany her to various appointments.   We have managed to communicate, she with limited English, me with my limited Macedonian, utilizing the sometimes inaccurate Google Translate.  We fortunately sit side by side and can view each other’s computer screens.   I have also met her husband, as he also works in the municipality as an engineer.

Attending presentations of non-profit agencies on topics from women’s rights to environmental concerns have also been part of my introduction to the various functions of my department.  The first four weeks have also included trips to the library to help count votes for a Christmas drawing competition for students, and a trip to the high school where a sex education rally included a local pop singer performing.  All the time pretty much not understanding a spoken word.  I even went to the city council meeting on the budget and watched what I assume was a spirited debate over certain items.  While we were trained for 11 weeks in the basic language, I think very few of us finished training with the ability to understand conversational, and therefore much more complicated Macedonian. 
Additionaly, I have been interviewed by the local Kocani TV station and appeared more than a few times on the local news, usually as an attendee at a civic meeting.   This has contributed to more people in the city at least knowing that the white haired guy they see walking around every day is an American, new to town.

On this past Friday, I headed out to the bus station at 6:00AM and boarded a bus for a 5 and 1/2 hour trip to the city of Ohrid.  Several of us were gathering in there for a Christmas weekend.  The group consisted of most of the people I trained with and several who lived in a nearby village.  It was certainly good to see all of them again.  The ride was not as bad as I anticipated as the bus was fairly new and comfortable.  The city is located on Lake Ohrid which is the largest body of water here in Macedonia and the place to go for vacation here.  As the photos show, it is an impressive location and I am sure that it is even more appealing in the summer time. 

Following a trip to a restaurant on Christmas Eve and a tour of the old city, we headed back to our hosts Nic and Dina’s apartments.  There we drank wine, ate some more and played games until pretty late.  The next day a few of us ventured out on a walk along the lake out to the point where the church in the photo is located.  Of course, when we got there and climbed the hill to the top it started to rain.  That was compounded by following a path that dead ended, but we managed to return in time to meet the others for last minute food shopping.  The pot luck feast that followed was very welcomed after the way I have been eating since moving.  Admittedly I didn’t do much, so I was allowed to purchase the chicken as my token contribution.  boneless breast to feed all for a 350 denar...that is approximately 7 bucks!!!  After eating, we opened gifts from the people whose had be assigned our name, played a few more games, and sat talking till the wee hours.  I think I got 4 hours sleep on Christmas night and looked forward to catching a nap on the return bus ride.  That was not to be.  After our good byes and taxi ride to the station, I boarded my bus at 1:30 for the return trip.  This was not the comfortable ride I had arrived here with and sleep was not going to be part of this trip.  This bus was indeed a Mercedes, but closer to a 1970 version than the newer, smooth riding bus I had hoped for.  Broken seats, shocks, and windshield wipers were the least of my concerns.  The ride from Ohrid to Kocani is up, over, and through several mountains so my main concern was the brakes.  Just hoping that they worked better than the appearances would lead me to believe.  Well, 6 hours later I made it to my home city and was very happy to get off that bus. 

Today I received an e-invite to an event in Bitola for New Years.    Bitola is close to 5 hours away… I think I will be spending New Years right here!

Swearing In and Moving Out

November 25th, was a big day for those of us referred to as MAK 15’s.  (Simply the 15^th class of trainees to serve here.)  On that day we all became "official" volunteers in the Peace Corp.  Our days as trainees were over and we would be moving to our sites the next day to begin our service.
It was a different day than any other since I have been here in many respects.  First of all, knowing that it was Thanksgiving back home lent a strange feel to it.  In addition, there was no "class" this day as there had been on every other weekday since my arrival.  
So, dressed in a suit and a tie for the event, along with my host family who were also dressed in their finest, we were ready to go.  A bus arrived as scheduled at 11 AM to take all we Romonovste trainees and families to “The Palace”…a very nice restaurant in Kumonovo.

Surprisingly, at least to anyone who knows me, I found the event more emotional than expected.  We sang the Macedonian and American anthems and were then given the oath as a group by the American Ambassador.  Of course, the obligatory speeches by the several participants followed.  In attendance were mayors from the local communities, the Macedonian Minister of Education, and as mentioned the American Ambassador.  Of course the entire Peace Corp staff was there, from the Country Director to the drivers who brought them.   While most of the speakers used interpreters, the Ambassador impressed all by speaking in both languages.  Two volunteers from our class were selected by the group to speak in the local language.  (One in Macedonian and one in Albanian.)  They each did an amazing job and received a well deserved and enthusiastic round of applause. 

With the ceremony completed and certificates handed out, our group dispersed and joined our host families at community tables.  The food was then brought to several locations by the restaurant staff and the chaos began!

We had been informed (warned) by the Macedonian Peace Corp staffers that the concept of buffet serving was quite foreign and we got to witness it firsthand.  Fortunately, there was plenty of food and in spite of the difficulty getting to it, we all managed to eat plenty.  Mysteriously, most of the desserts quickly disappeared from each table.  I later learned that piling many on a plate and returning them to your table right away is not uncommon.  Next time I will know…dessert first!   Each family was asked to bring a dish to go along with the 20 turkeys provided by the Peace Corp.  As we were told to expect, most brought more than one as well as bags containing homemade “beverages”. After all, what is a celebration without a traditional toast?

A few hours and many pictures later, the goodbyes to our fellow trainees and staff began.   I don’t know how to describe the feeling exactly.  While in one sense I am so happy to be moving on to the beginning of service, the fact that I just spent 11 weeks with six of these folks and our language teachers makes the moment a little sad also.  Oh well, we didn’t sign up for this to hang out with new friends and hopefully we will visit each other occasionally during service.

Back “home” by 6 PM, I finished packing for the following day’s trip.  I was one of the lucky ones.  The municipality where I will be working informed me that they would send someone to my village and drive me to my new apartment. Most of the volunteers were using taxis and buses early the next day. 

That same evening, a young man who is a friend of my host families son Goce, came to the house to give me a bottle of his home made wine.  I had commented that I liked it, just in passing, and sure enough, there it was.  I had shared a couple of meals and many conversations with both Goce and Yugoslav as they both spoke English quite well.  While they are young, 30 and 28, I thoroughly enjoyed the conversation and I think I can call these young men friends of mine now. 

As expected, the car from the municipality arrived the next morning at just around 10 AM.  The driver called from the city for directions and fortunately, Sveto was right there to provide them.  There are no street names or house numbers in the villages.

I had a lot of help with the two very heavy suitcases and an unbelievably heavier “carry on” type bag.  This was now stuffed with manuals and papers acquired during my first 12 weeks.  Also new on this trip was the bag of laundry, the bag of homemade cookies, and of course, the bottles of wine and Rakia I received as gifts.

I would never have believed how close you can feel to people from an entirely different culture after such a short time.  People who speak a different language and do not understand most of what you say.   Now, I Believe it.  I had been told over and over how they would welcome me into their home and family and they indeed did just that.  Leaving their home was bittersweet.  I was happy to be getting out and on my own, but quite sad to be leaving the three of them behind.  These are truly memorable people, living a simple life.   I will go back, hopefully many times, to visit them during my service here. 

A couple of hours after we left Romanovste, we arrived in Kocani at my new “home”.  My landlord and two other people from the municipality were there to greet me as well as assist me in hauling my possessions up to, and I mean up, to my place.  Eighty six steps I think….but that is a story for another time.

Tractors, counterparts, haircuts, tests and miscellaneous photos

Goce

Two weeks ago, I had a chance to head out to the fields with Sveto early one morning while his son, Goce, met us at our destination with the tractor.  This field was not nearly as far as the corn fields and I was there only to observe this time...no work.  It is in the fall that all the plowing is completed along with fertilizing and some planting.  The purpose of this trip was spreading the seeds for the wheat.  This wheat will be ground into the flour used for making bread next year. They do have a separate field where they grow a similar crop but it is for feeding the animals. The 300 kilos of seed were on the ground in no time at all and we headed back to the house, stopping for a couple of posed photos.(below)  I think we passed at least 6 or 7 other local men either going to or coming from their fields. The way ownership of the land was determined post Yugoslavia resulted in many families owning fields spread far and wide from their homes and each other.  This makes the farming way of life even more challenging here. 

Just a pose...not really driving!

Last week we had an informative, day long session with our future work associates that are referred to as our counterpart.  My counterpart's name is Anika and I am fortunate in that she has over 18 years experience working for the municipality of Kocani.  I think this will work out well as she is not only experienced and intelligent, but apparently has a good understanding of what my role will be for the next couple of years.  The fact that she speaks and understand very little English will make it a little more challenging for the first few months but we agreed that we will be teaching each other our native tongues.  I think they also would like me to teach some English at the site as only 4 or 5 of the 60 employees currently are proficient and all of the available grant money requires the applications be completed in English. This will probably be something I do after my normal working hours.

Went into Kumonovo two more times.  This is the 5th or 6th time I have gone to the city with the intentions of getting my haircut while there.  I have returned an equal number of times without doing so.  Oh well, I still have five days till swearing in....  Or maybe I will just buy a hat!

No...a hat won't do it!!!

Had my final LPI (Language Proficiency Interview) ..a euphemism for "test", yesterday.  Won't know how I did until Monday, but it is a huge relief to get it over with.  It is only a half hour but it is all in Macedonian and all recorded.  No writing, just speaking and listening.

My terrific teacher, Maya

This coming Thursday, Thanksgiving, we will be sworn into the peace Corp.  It is a big day for all of us as it officially ends out pre-service training and every one of us is very happy for that.  On Friday I will move to my new city and apartment and begin work the following Monday.  The first task will be to buy "everything".  sheets, towels, food, coffee maker etc. etc. etc.  I cannot wait for a cup of good old "American style" coffee.
I may not have the Internet for a while as it is up to me to contact the provider and order the service.  that in itself could be interesting.  So, no posts for a couple of weeks or so as I move to the next phase of life in Macedonia.

A few photos taken last week in some unseasonably warm and sunny weather........................

 

Rakia

Kocani ... A first solo!

“Time flies when you are having a good time” or so claims the oft repeated adage.  I  think it should simply be shortened to the first two words…period.   It is difficult to believe that I have been in this country for eight weeks and that my training is over in less than three.  On November 25^th, we will be sworn in as members of the Peace Corps. Half in jest,  I once suggested to some friends that I would be back home after three months due to failure at the new language. Now it looks like I will be here for quite a while longer. 

This past week was a “big adventure” for my group as we separated and travelled individually to our future work sites to meet the people we will work with for the next two years.  For most of us, this was the first time we had to make our way alone.  On Monday I phoned the woman in Kocani who the municipality and Peace Corps had designated as my counterpart.  This counterpart is the person who will work closely with us and more or less “show us the ropes “as we settle in to our assignments.   This did present an unusual problem as my counterpart speaks and understands very little Englishand my Macedonian skills are far from conversational.  After a troubling attempt at getting our plans down for the next day, I decided to contact a Peace Corp staffer and cry “help”.  I was provided an additional name and number and now there were two assigned to meet me the next day. 

 Tuesday began quite well as taking the “kombi” (a van that serves as a shared taxi) into the city from my village was something I had done many times.  I chose to walk to the bus station from the kombi stop and was at the window ready to buy my ticket to Kochani in a matter a mere 15 minutes or so.  I guess my request for a one way ticket was understood and I even managed to ask from what gate the bus would be leaving.   Nearly three hours later, I arrived in the Kocani bus station and was met immediately as I stepped off the bus by the two employees of the municipality.  Their task on this day was simply to get me to my hotel and let me know of the plans for tomorrow. 
 Checking in to the hotel was a little different than in the states too.  Yes, different is a good way to describe it.  We entered the hotel and walked through a large room that usually hosts weddings.  Up more stairs to a service bar to be checked in by what appeared to be and I later discovered was... the waiter.  He wrote my name in a book, grabbed a key and my bag and up three flights we walked to my room.  There I turned over my passport and he was off.  Tipping is not a custom here and on our budgets that is a good thing.  Surprisingly, there were two members of my volunteer group also at this same hotel.  They were assigned to cities not far from mine and this hotel was located between the two.  At least I would not dine alone!  My Macedonian surprised me once more as I managed to get menus and order what turned out to be a very good dinner.

Wednesday morning a young man from the municipality picked me up at my hotel explaining that my counterpart was busy and that he would bring me to what I will call“city hall”.  I was lead to what will be my “spot” in the office of Local Economic Development which was at a desk right next to my counterpart and across from the department head.  A few additional introductions and I was off to meet the mayor and his second in command. 
 Joined by my two escorts to the hotel and a third municipal employee, we headed out for a tour of the vicinity.  It just happened to be a sunny day in the high 60’s so walking around the city was great. There is a river through the center of town with benches all along and the place seems quite nice.  My first impression was that it is relatively quiet, clean and friendly.  We headed for the town center for coffee at one of the many outdoor cafés that were all quite busy for mid morning on a Wednesday.  Coffee was followed by a trip to a newly relocated town library that was celebrating its grand opening and then back to the municipality.  We reentered through the public access doors into the new addition to the building. This new section is where the citizens go for service.  It appears to be quite well organized and assessable to the citizenry.  Finished here, I told my hosts that I could manage my return and went off to check out a few things on my own.  Later I contacted a teaching volunteer currently assigned here and she was kind enough to meet me and tell me more about the place.  A taxi back to the hotel, dinner with my American associates and a good night’s sleep and I was ready to head back to my temporary home in Romanovste.
  I surprised myself on the taxi ride to the bus station on Thursday by telling the drive that I would be living in his city in a short three weeks and working at the municipality for two years.  The reason for the surprise was that I did this in Macedonian and he understood all I was telling him.  (I know because I checked my books when I returned to see if I had made sense.) Plus he then told me where he had lived and how long he had been back and driving the cab.  Still under no illusion of being able to speak and understand the language to any great degree, it was indeed a small victory.

One long wait at the bus station followed by a multi stop return on a VERY warm bus, and I was back in Kumonovo looking for a taxi to the village and “home”.

I think I am going to like it in Kocani!  I have an idea or two already!



Took a trip to Skopje, the largest city and capital of Macedonia and residence to a third of the total population. It is the country's political, cultural, economic, and academic centre.  There are over 660,000 inhabitants . The contrast between this city and the village we live in is more than dramatic. 

Took the bus in and proceeded to walk... and walk... and walk... and walk for quite a while.  We finally found the center of the city and decided to eat.  What did we choose?  Of all things, an Irish Pub.

Spent the entire day touring in and around the center of town and that evening, after eating again, we attended the annual wine festival.  There were maybe 12 Americans and we managed to sample many of the local offerings.

We caught (barely) the 11PM train back to our village.  This train was classic.  It reminded me of the trains you see in foreign films with the long narrow aisle on one side and individual compartments along the other, some sleepers some not.

Below, a small taste of the city! 

An earthquake destroyed 80% of the city in 1963

The center is formed of two entirely separate sections. The older parts on the north bank of the Vardar, which were mostly untouched by the disaster, contrast with the neighborhoods to the south which were mostly fully rebuilt. They are characterized by wide boulevards and include most administrative buildings. The nerve center of the city was the Macedonia Square and the reconstruction was made on the south bank of Vardar, which is connected with the north by a bridge.

Skopje made the transition easily from the capital of the Socialist Federal Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia to the capital of today's Republic of Macedonia.

Today, Skopje is seeing a makeover in buildings, streets and shops.Other projects under construction are the "Macedonian Struggle" Museum, the Archaeological Museum of Macedonia, National Archive of Macedonia, Constitutional Court, and a new Philharmonic Theater. The city's national stadium Philip II Arena and the city's Alexander the Great Airport are also being reconstructed and expanded.

                                                         

The city is also the birthplace of  Mother Theresa...

The new government has pledged to restore the Kale fortress and to rebuild the beautiful 19th century Army House, the Old National Theatre, and the Old National Bank of Macedonia – all destroyed in the 1963 earthquake. 

Next post will be about my site and job for the next two years!!!

Saturday at the "Animal Market" and other things...

Even though it is Saturday, today I was up and ready to go at 6:30.  We were off to Kumonovo so I could witness the "Животински пазар" first hand.  Each Saturday villagers from around the city gather to buy and sell assorted farm animals. 


A combi to the city, a short walk, and then a taxi and we are at the market.  This is an amazing place.  Men arrive in trucks, vans, tractors, and cars hauling the goods to be sold.  Cows, calves, goats, pigs, and sheep comprise the bulk of the days fare but there are also vendors selling goods ranging from electrical supplies to old Yugoslavian army uniforms.  Of course there are also the food vendors as well as a few folks selling fresh produce.

Just watching these men unload their animals makes the trip worthwhile.  Some coax, some lead, others push, some drag, while a few even kick, but one by one, these animals are offloaded. They are then either led to a pen or tied to a rail , ready now for inspection by perspective buyers. One man passes with a lamb whose feet are bound, hanging from his forearm.  I pass another tractor whose small trailer is crammed with 10 or so small pigs.  Goce has accompanied me on the trip while Sveto arrives later in his tractor along with the calf he will sell.  I did get to watch a few deals being made and the traditional exaggerated handshakes that mark the conclusion.  Some men are here to buy, others to sell, and some to buy and then re-sell.  The financially stronger men flock to potential sellers that they know may need the money and will sell at a better price than others. We observe one such transaction where a man sells all four of his cows as soon as he unloads his truck. Goce recognizes this man as a poor villager and the man making the deal with him appears by his attire to be of more substantial means.  I also see a few deals fall apart and men walk away shaking their heads.

We are there for over an hour before we spot Sveto amid many men and the small cows.  By the time we reach him, he has already sold his calf and we are looking for a taxi back to the center of the city.

On the return trip,  Sveto and Goce stop to buy new shoes in the center of town. Goce and I stop again, where he buys a new toaster for his mother.  One final stop at the food market and we are headed to the combi . 

There we catch up to Sveto and we are all back home by 10:30 AM.  Just in time for lunch!!!

• In Romanovce everyone apparently knows everyone else!  While it may seem that everyone pays a visit to everyone else, I am sure we have not had anywhere near the current population of over 2400 visitors during my three weeks here.  People here are extremely social.  They visit each other often and without reservation as  "stopping by" is welcomed by all.  Those who do visit are offered always food and beverage.

• The cooking stove at my home is kept outside in the summer and brought in for the colder months.
• There is no heating system in village homes and a wood stove will provide the warmth for the downstairs when it is connected.
• It can be mighty cool here in early October!
• It is surprisingly easy to live without American television.
• By the time I leave this village and this home, I could and probably will weigh a lot more than when I arrived.  They are always offering food ..."jadi, Bill jadi"...and I am always eating what is offered.
• Mac n cheese is pretty good for breakfast as is soup, tomatoes, and many other tasty dishes that I cannot name.
• "Main Street" (below) doesn't have a name, nor is there a village center!
• ATMs here offer a choice of English or Macedonian