I have been a living and working here in Kocani for just over four weeks. My apartment is on what the peace Corp referred to as the "fourth" floor. However, the first two levels have very high ceilings, the first level is home to a bank but I don’t know what is on the second level. Based on a comparison to surrounding residential structures, I am at the least five, closer to six flights up. Eighty six steps by the last count and I seem to count them every time while making the climb. Feeling good until the last two legs (flights) of the trip usually, and then I wonder... why me? I guess I will know when I am in shape by that milepost. The real test is shopping and I am now careful just how much I buy. Not so much in cash or the number of items, simply in how much will this stuff weigh!
Fortunately, I am conveniently located just a short walk to my work and right in the center of town. The apartment, on the other hand has seen better days, as the photos will attest. Great views though!
The landlord is the former mayor of the city and is also a dentist. He is an extremely nice man who has responded immediately both times my heat gave out! Just last week, he and his handyman were here fixing the big electric unit pictured here.
They proceeded to make 6 trips up and down the stairs to get various parts for the job. I was amazed at the stamina of both men as neither seemed a bit winded after all the climbing. Made me feel kind of guilty complaining, as they are not much younger than I am. My “work” is yet to be defined but is beginning to come into view. I have a spot in an office, go in each day, and I attend several meetings. My gracious and understanding counterpart, Anika, allows me to accompany her to various appointments. We have managed to communicate, she with limited English, me with my limited Macedonian, utilizing the sometimes inaccurate Google Translate. We fortunately sit side by side and can view each other’s computer screens. I have also met her husband, as he also works in the municipality as an engineer.
Attending presentations of non-profit agencies on topics from women’s rights to environmental concerns have also been part of my introduction to the various functions of my department. The first four weeks have also included trips to the library to help count votes for a Christmas drawing competition for students, and a trip to the high school where a sex education rally included a local pop singer performing. All the time pretty much not understanding a spoken word. I even went to the city council meeting on the budget and watched what I assume was a spirited debate over certain items. While we were trained for 11 weeks in the basic language, I think very few of us finished training with the ability to understand conversational, and therefore much more complicated Macedonian.
Additionaly, I have been interviewed by the local Kocani TV station and appeared more than a few times on the local news, usually as an attendee at a civic meeting. This has contributed to more people in the city at least knowing that the white haired guy they see walking around every day is an American, new to town.
Additionaly, I have been interviewed by the local Kocani TV station and appeared more than a few times on the local news, usually as an attendee at a civic meeting. This has contributed to more people in the city at least knowing that the white haired guy they see walking around every day is an American, new to town.
On this past Friday, I headed out to the bus station at 6:00AM and boarded a bus for a 5 and 1/2 hour trip to the city of Ohrid. Several of us were gathering in there for a Christmas weekend. The group consisted of most of the people I trained with and several who lived in a nearby village. It was certainly good to see all of them again. The ride was not as bad as I anticipated as the bus was fairly new and comfortable. The city is located on Lake Ohrid which is the largest body of water here in Macedonia and the place to go for vacation here. As the photos show, it is an impressive location and I am sure that it is even more appealing in the summer time.
Following a trip to a restaurant on Christmas Eve and a tour of the old city, we headed back to our hosts Nic and Dina’s apartments. There we drank wine, ate some more and played games until pretty late. The next day a few of us ventured out on a walk along the lake out to the point where the church in the photo is located. Of course, when we got there and climbed the hill to the top it started to rain. That was compounded by following a path that dead ended, but we managed to return in time to meet the others for last minute food shopping. The pot luck feast that followed was very welcomed after the way I have been eating since moving. Admittedly I didn’t do much, so I was allowed to purchase the chicken as my token contribution. boneless breast to feed all for a 350 denar...that is approximately 7 bucks!!! After eating, we opened gifts from the people whose had be assigned our name, played a few more games, and sat talking till the wee hours. I think I got 4 hours sleep on Christmas night and looked forward to catching a nap on the return bus ride. That was not to be. After our good byes and taxi ride to the station, I boarded my bus at 1:30 for the return trip. This was not the comfortable ride I had arrived here with and sleep was not going to be part of this trip. This bus was indeed a Mercedes, but closer to a 1970 version than the newer, smooth riding bus I had hoped for. Broken seats, shocks, and windshield wipers were the least of my concerns. The ride from Ohrid to Kocani is up, over, and through several mountains so my main concern was the brakes. Just hoping that they worked better than the appearances would lead me to believe. Well, 6 hours later I made it to my home city and was very happy to get off that bus.
Today I received an e-invite to an event in Bitola for New Years. Bitola is close to 5 hours away… I think I will be spending New Years right here!
Well you are missing out on a fabulous New Years then...but we will miss you in Bitola aka the most beautiful city in Macedonia
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