Various February "stuff"

Just arrived at the office where the temperature appears to be close to 80. Everyone is always cold here...except me! 

On the walk here this morning I passed many older men along the way and realized that I have never seen any men over 40 something working anywhere except at the municipality, the post office or the police force.  All the shops, restaurants, taxis etc. seem to be operated by women and young men.  No point to this but it did strike me as odd.  Several of the women here I work with have told me that their husbands are not currently working.  I guess with an unemployment rate over 30% that fact should not be surprising.

There is a bridge over the river, right in front of the municipality building (“city hall”), is the gathering spot for the men from the Roma community.  There are always several groups of men their talking, smoking, etc. …every day, all day. At times there will be a car with the doors open and music playing.  This morning there were probably seven different groups of 5 or 6 as it is a bright sunny day.  Many of the men here do not own cars and this gathering spot is conveniently located at the base of a hill that is home to most of the Roma population.  Again, no point to this, just another observation.

I had visitors from my old village two weekends back.  Goce and Yugoslav drove out from Romanovce for a visit with me and also to look up some of their old university friends.  We drove up a long mountain road to a small ski area.  Only two trails, one for novices and one more challenging short run make up the entire resort.  Both trails are serviced by t-bar lifts.  There is also a small hotel with a big “lodge like” restaurant and we decided to have a meal there. 

 The guys did all the ordering and we had a long, leisurely meal accompanied by two carafes of “hot Rakia”.  This is the same home brewed alcohol that is so popular here but served hot.  It is quite different.  Sugar and sometimes other ingredients such as honey are added and it arrives very hot. … it was strong and quite good.  Two of the young guys had an “after dinner” wine and one a beer.  Not an unusual thing here at all.  I passed on that part having finished three glasses of the Rakia. 

On the return trip, we stopped at the home of another friend from school.  Of course, food and drinks were immediately on the table in front of us.  Not wanting to appear rude, (and a little hungry again) I did sample what was offered and had a couple of shots of Mastika, the other favorite local home brew. This one has an anise flavor and is a lot like Ouzo.  By the time we left that home, I had consumed more alcohol on that day than in the entire 5 months I had been here.  As the young men prepared for a night on the town, I decided to be dropped off at my place and they obliged. After all, it was nearly 10PM!!!  Ahh, to be young again!  Thinking about it now, I really did not have all that much to drink and it was over a long period of time.  I guess I am just plain out of shape!  I will train before returning home!

Yugi, the young man in the photo with me here, received some very good news last week.  He was offered and accepted a new job in Skopje, at twice his current salary. 

It is a Russian run power company and he is a trained electrician.  He said that over 100 had originally applied and because of his qualifications and knowledge, he was selected for second interviews with four others who were also qualified.  He thinks his English language skills landed him the job.  He has taught himself a lot of English and is quite good at it.  He is an ambitious young man who is now studying Russian. (although the cute teacher has something to do with that I think).  Anyway it was good to see someone here get ahead especially a quality young man like this. He takes good care of his mother, works their land and I am sure the new salary will be put to good use.  Maybe he will even trade in his red Lada!!!

This past weekend a friend from training came to Kocani and stayed at my place for the weekend.  Robert is from Texas, a dentist in his early 50’s and another genuine good guy.  He has two sons in the Army as well as a daughter.  He raised them as a single dad too! We were joined by a young volunteer from a nearby town on both Friday and Saturday night and we shared a few bottles of Macedonian wine.  Nothing special but it was real nice just having someone to talk to in English.  He is having a similar experience to mine is his town, where he also is assigned to the municipality.  Neither of us seem to have found our niche or purpose just yet.  We shared our frustration and the opportunity to gripe to someone in a similar situation was good therapy.  We both agreed to give it time.  My English classes are  helping fill that gap but I hope to find more purposeful work soon.

On the following weekend, I travelled to Vinica, a city only 10K or so from here.  Only a 30 denari (60 cent) bus ride to fellow volunteer Elena’s.  She invited me to dinner on Friday night. Bethany, another of the many young volunteers here, was spending the weekend with Elena and we all enjoyed a good meal.  Mashed potatoes for the first time since arriving and chicken.  Elena is just 22 years old, wise beyond her years, and she served us a great meal.  We even had a salad and brownie cupcakes for desert.  Having just sons, it was an interesting evening talking with two young ladies.  Only a 200 den cab ride for the return trip too!  Such a deal!

I had been feeling lousy on Thursday and early Friday but thought it had passed when I headed out to Vinica.  Unfortunately, Saturday came and I felt like I had been run over by a truck.  I laid around, napping on and off all day.  I only ventured out briefly to get a few things I needed to eat.  Sunday was more of the same and by Monday I was feeling a lot better.  I do have to start eating better for sure!

It is now another weekend and I actually do have “stuff” to do.  A council member recently published a book of poetry and there is a reading tonight at the local culture center.  I received an invite through the municipality and even though I will not understand a word, I will attend.

On Saturday evening, my counterpart (she is the person arranged by the Peace Corp to be their main contact and mine at the office) has invited me to her home for her middle son’s birthday.  I have met her husband many times and I am sure this will be a good night.  Earlier that same day, I am heading to Stip for lunch with another volunteer celebrating his birthday. 

Sunday I head to a volunteer's place in a nearby village for diner.  Unlike most of us, he is living with a family and they have been asking me to dinner for weeks.  They saw me on the local TV and want to meet the older American”.  CJ, their tenant, is only 25. 

Holidays and Traditions

January is a month filled with holidays here in Macedonia and so far there has been at least one every week. The first holiday is Orthodox Christmas which is celebrated on January 7^Th and followed a week later by "Old New Year".  

For the traditional Christmas, I returned to Romanovce for a visit with the Angelovskis, my host family.  It was great to see them again and spend time in their home.(and have some good home cooked food again)  On Christmas Eve their tradition is to eat while seated on the floor.  There are blessings  and thanks for the food, the animals, the crops and the people which is followed by a meat and dairy free meal.  To begin the meal, there is a traditional sharing of bread with each person taking a piece and one dedicated to God.  One section contains a gold coin that is a sign of good fortune for the upcoming year for the person who gets it.  This year, the coin was in the piece designated to “God”.  Very nice old traditions and I was happy that the family had invited me to participate.   I returned the next day for a grand meal ...meat and dairy now included.   When it was time to leave I was presented with homemade wine, bread, candy, stuffed cabbage,  etc.  I am told this is just traditional and will happen whenever I visit.  I must visit more often!!! 

There is another interesting holiday in January on the 19^Th, celebrating the baptism of Jesus.  In my city, the event is marked by an event at the river that runs through the center of town.  A temporary dam is constructed interrupting the flow so that the culvert fills to the edge of the river banks.  What takes place at ten in the morning here is the "throwing of the cross."  It appeared that just about every resident of the city was [present lining the shores of the river.  As several of the orthodox “popes” arrive in a procession from the church there is music, most likely Orthodox hymns, playing over the loudspeaker system set up at a podium on one of the many bridges across the river.  Following a short ceremony of prayers and blessings and reading of many names, a small wooden cross is tossed into the river.  The young men lining the river bank then dive or jump into the icy river in a frantic effort to retrieve the crucifix.   (see the photos).  The lucky man to get the cross is not only purported to be blessed with good fortune for the entire year,  there are other motivating factors as well.  He (yes, only males participated)  also received a television, and gold necklace from the mayor, and an undetermined amount of cash.  He and his friends then take the cross and blessed water through the crowd that has gathered at the center.  Each person is offered an opportunity to kiss the cross, gets sprinkled with the water and they then make an offering.  The young man gets to keep the "offering" also.  I would say it is a very bountiful day for the successful retriever.

 

This past week I helped out with the recording of a CD that will be used in English language lessons for security students at a university in Skopje.  Six of us participated and it was actually a lot of fun.  My voice will remain here long after I am gone!!!   The big bonus that went along with this trip to the capital was that I was able to go to the UPS office and retrieve a package .  I had ordered a Kindle in December and it was finally here in the country.  The issue was that UPS could not find me in Kocani after repeated efforts.   I did manage to find them with the help of a volunteer living in Skopje and retrieved the package.  I now have absolutely no excuses if I don’t read a lot of books while here.

 

I have my first meeting with my “students” next week as my work will finally begin.  There are currently 25 or so employees of the municipality signed up for my English language classes.  The first task will be to determine how to divide this group into three smaller classes of somewhat comparable language skills.  I have devised a test that I hope will do just that.

I am looking forward to starting the lessons even though teaching is entirely new to me.  Fortunately, I have grown very comfortable in front of groups in my old age and will at the very least have some fun doing this.   I have also been asked to participate in the English language classes the will be offered to the general public.  The teachers from the local schools will be in charge of this and I will simply contribute whatever they request.   These “jobs” are both later in the day or evening so it appears I am to be employed on the "second shift"!  Anyway,  I look forward to being “busy”

A new home, the job...and the Holidays!

I have been a living and working here in Kocani for just over four weeks. My apartment is on what the peace Corp referred to as the "fourth" floor.  However, the first two levels have very high ceilings, the first level is home to a bank but I don’t know what is on the second level.  Based on a comparison to surrounding residential structures, I am at the least five, closer to six flights up.  Eighty six steps by the last count and I seem to count them every time while making the climb.  Feeling good until the last two legs (flights) of the trip usually, and then I wonder... why me?  I guess I will know when I am in shape by that milepost.  The real test is shopping and I am now careful just how much I buy.  Not so much in cash or the number of items, simply in how much will this stuff weigh! 

Fortunately, I am conveniently located just a short walk to my work and right in the center of town.  The apartment, on the other hand has seen better days, as the photos will attest.  Great views though! 

The landlord is the former mayor of the city and is also a dentist.  He is an extremely nice man who has responded immediately both times my heat gave out!   Just last week, he and his handyman were here fixing the big electric unit pictured here. 

They proceeded to make 6 trips up and down the stairs to get various parts for the job.  I was amazed at the stamina of both men as neither seemed a bit winded after all the climbing.  Made me feel kind of guilty complaining, as they are not much younger than I am.

  My “work” is yet to be defined but is beginning to come into view.  I have a spot in an office, go in each day, and I attend several meetings.  My gracious and understanding counterpart, Anika, allows me to accompany her to various appointments.   We have managed to communicate, she with limited English, me with my limited Macedonian, utilizing the sometimes inaccurate Google Translate.  We fortunately sit side by side and can view each other’s computer screens.   I have also met her husband, as he also works in the municipality as an engineer.

Attending presentations of non-profit agencies on topics from women’s rights to environmental concerns have also been part of my introduction to the various functions of my department.  The first four weeks have also included trips to the library to help count votes for a Christmas drawing competition for students, and a trip to the high school where a sex education rally included a local pop singer performing.  All the time pretty much not understanding a spoken word.  I even went to the city council meeting on the budget and watched what I assume was a spirited debate over certain items.  While we were trained for 11 weeks in the basic language, I think very few of us finished training with the ability to understand conversational, and therefore much more complicated Macedonian. 
Additionaly, I have been interviewed by the local Kocani TV station and appeared more than a few times on the local news, usually as an attendee at a civic meeting.   This has contributed to more people in the city at least knowing that the white haired guy they see walking around every day is an American, new to town.

On this past Friday, I headed out to the bus station at 6:00AM and boarded a bus for a 5 and 1/2 hour trip to the city of Ohrid.  Several of us were gathering in there for a Christmas weekend.  The group consisted of most of the people I trained with and several who lived in a nearby village.  It was certainly good to see all of them again.  The ride was not as bad as I anticipated as the bus was fairly new and comfortable.  The city is located on Lake Ohrid which is the largest body of water here in Macedonia and the place to go for vacation here.  As the photos show, it is an impressive location and I am sure that it is even more appealing in the summer time. 

Following a trip to a restaurant on Christmas Eve and a tour of the old city, we headed back to our hosts Nic and Dina’s apartments.  There we drank wine, ate some more and played games until pretty late.  The next day a few of us ventured out on a walk along the lake out to the point where the church in the photo is located.  Of course, when we got there and climbed the hill to the top it started to rain.  That was compounded by following a path that dead ended, but we managed to return in time to meet the others for last minute food shopping.  The pot luck feast that followed was very welcomed after the way I have been eating since moving.  Admittedly I didn’t do much, so I was allowed to purchase the chicken as my token contribution.  boneless breast to feed all for a 350 denar...that is approximately 7 bucks!!!  After eating, we opened gifts from the people whose had be assigned our name, played a few more games, and sat talking till the wee hours.  I think I got 4 hours sleep on Christmas night and looked forward to catching a nap on the return bus ride.  That was not to be.  After our good byes and taxi ride to the station, I boarded my bus at 1:30 for the return trip.  This was not the comfortable ride I had arrived here with and sleep was not going to be part of this trip.  This bus was indeed a Mercedes, but closer to a 1970 version than the newer, smooth riding bus I had hoped for.  Broken seats, shocks, and windshield wipers were the least of my concerns.  The ride from Ohrid to Kocani is up, over, and through several mountains so my main concern was the brakes.  Just hoping that they worked better than the appearances would lead me to believe.  Well, 6 hours later I made it to my home city and was very happy to get off that bus. 

Today I received an e-invite to an event in Bitola for New Years.    Bitola is close to 5 hours away… I think I will be spending New Years right here!

Swearing In and Moving Out

November 25th, was a big day for those of us referred to as MAK 15’s.  (Simply the 15^th class of trainees to serve here.)  On that day we all became "official" volunteers in the Peace Corp.  Our days as trainees were over and we would be moving to our sites the next day to begin our service.
It was a different day than any other since I have been here in many respects.  First of all, knowing that it was Thanksgiving back home lent a strange feel to it.  In addition, there was no "class" this day as there had been on every other weekday since my arrival.  
So, dressed in a suit and a tie for the event, along with my host family who were also dressed in their finest, we were ready to go.  A bus arrived as scheduled at 11 AM to take all we Romonovste trainees and families to “The Palace”…a very nice restaurant in Kumonovo.

Surprisingly, at least to anyone who knows me, I found the event more emotional than expected.  We sang the Macedonian and American anthems and were then given the oath as a group by the American Ambassador.  Of course, the obligatory speeches by the several participants followed.  In attendance were mayors from the local communities, the Macedonian Minister of Education, and as mentioned the American Ambassador.  Of course the entire Peace Corp staff was there, from the Country Director to the drivers who brought them.   While most of the speakers used interpreters, the Ambassador impressed all by speaking in both languages.  Two volunteers from our class were selected by the group to speak in the local language.  (One in Macedonian and one in Albanian.)  They each did an amazing job and received a well deserved and enthusiastic round of applause. 

With the ceremony completed and certificates handed out, our group dispersed and joined our host families at community tables.  The food was then brought to several locations by the restaurant staff and the chaos began!

We had been informed (warned) by the Macedonian Peace Corp staffers that the concept of buffet serving was quite foreign and we got to witness it firsthand.  Fortunately, there was plenty of food and in spite of the difficulty getting to it, we all managed to eat plenty.  Mysteriously, most of the desserts quickly disappeared from each table.  I later learned that piling many on a plate and returning them to your table right away is not uncommon.  Next time I will know…dessert first!   Each family was asked to bring a dish to go along with the 20 turkeys provided by the Peace Corp.  As we were told to expect, most brought more than one as well as bags containing homemade “beverages”. After all, what is a celebration without a traditional toast?

A few hours and many pictures later, the goodbyes to our fellow trainees and staff began.   I don’t know how to describe the feeling exactly.  While in one sense I am so happy to be moving on to the beginning of service, the fact that I just spent 11 weeks with six of these folks and our language teachers makes the moment a little sad also.  Oh well, we didn’t sign up for this to hang out with new friends and hopefully we will visit each other occasionally during service.

Back “home” by 6 PM, I finished packing for the following day’s trip.  I was one of the lucky ones.  The municipality where I will be working informed me that they would send someone to my village and drive me to my new apartment. Most of the volunteers were using taxis and buses early the next day. 

That same evening, a young man who is a friend of my host families son Goce, came to the house to give me a bottle of his home made wine.  I had commented that I liked it, just in passing, and sure enough, there it was.  I had shared a couple of meals and many conversations with both Goce and Yugoslav as they both spoke English quite well.  While they are young, 30 and 28, I thoroughly enjoyed the conversation and I think I can call these young men friends of mine now. 

As expected, the car from the municipality arrived the next morning at just around 10 AM.  The driver called from the city for directions and fortunately, Sveto was right there to provide them.  There are no street names or house numbers in the villages.

I had a lot of help with the two very heavy suitcases and an unbelievably heavier “carry on” type bag.  This was now stuffed with manuals and papers acquired during my first 12 weeks.  Also new on this trip was the bag of laundry, the bag of homemade cookies, and of course, the bottles of wine and Rakia I received as gifts.

I would never have believed how close you can feel to people from an entirely different culture after such a short time.  People who speak a different language and do not understand most of what you say.   Now, I Believe it.  I had been told over and over how they would welcome me into their home and family and they indeed did just that.  Leaving their home was bittersweet.  I was happy to be getting out and on my own, but quite sad to be leaving the three of them behind.  These are truly memorable people, living a simple life.   I will go back, hopefully many times, to visit them during my service here. 

A couple of hours after we left Romanovste, we arrived in Kocani at my new “home”.  My landlord and two other people from the municipality were there to greet me as well as assist me in hauling my possessions up to, and I mean up, to my place.  Eighty six steps I think….but that is a story for another time.

Tractors, counterparts, haircuts, tests and miscellaneous photos

Goce

Two weeks ago, I had a chance to head out to the fields with Sveto early one morning while his son, Goce, met us at our destination with the tractor.  This field was not nearly as far as the corn fields and I was there only to observe this time...no work.  It is in the fall that all the plowing is completed along with fertilizing and some planting.  The purpose of this trip was spreading the seeds for the wheat.  This wheat will be ground into the flour used for making bread next year. They do have a separate field where they grow a similar crop but it is for feeding the animals. The 300 kilos of seed were on the ground in no time at all and we headed back to the house, stopping for a couple of posed photos.(below)  I think we passed at least 6 or 7 other local men either going to or coming from their fields. The way ownership of the land was determined post Yugoslavia resulted in many families owning fields spread far and wide from their homes and each other.  This makes the farming way of life even more challenging here. 

Just a pose...not really driving!

Last week we had an informative, day long session with our future work associates that are referred to as our counterpart.  My counterpart's name is Anika and I am fortunate in that she has over 18 years experience working for the municipality of Kocani.  I think this will work out well as she is not only experienced and intelligent, but apparently has a good understanding of what my role will be for the next couple of years.  The fact that she speaks and understand very little English will make it a little more challenging for the first few months but we agreed that we will be teaching each other our native tongues.  I think they also would like me to teach some English at the site as only 4 or 5 of the 60 employees currently are proficient and all of the available grant money requires the applications be completed in English. This will probably be something I do after my normal working hours.

Went into Kumonovo two more times.  This is the 5th or 6th time I have gone to the city with the intentions of getting my haircut while there.  I have returned an equal number of times without doing so.  Oh well, I still have five days till swearing in....  Or maybe I will just buy a hat!

No...a hat won't do it!!!

Had my final LPI (Language Proficiency Interview) ..a euphemism for "test", yesterday.  Won't know how I did until Monday, but it is a huge relief to get it over with.  It is only a half hour but it is all in Macedonian and all recorded.  No writing, just speaking and listening.

My terrific teacher, Maya

This coming Thursday, Thanksgiving, we will be sworn into the peace Corp.  It is a big day for all of us as it officially ends out pre-service training and every one of us is very happy for that.  On Friday I will move to my new city and apartment and begin work the following Monday.  The first task will be to buy "everything".  sheets, towels, food, coffee maker etc. etc. etc.  I cannot wait for a cup of good old "American style" coffee.
I may not have the Internet for a while as it is up to me to contact the provider and order the service.  that in itself could be interesting.  So, no posts for a couple of weeks or so as I move to the next phase of life in Macedonia.

A few photos taken last week in some unseasonably warm and sunny weather........................

 

Rakia

Kocani ... A first solo!

“Time flies when you are having a good time” or so claims the oft repeated adage.  I  think it should simply be shortened to the first two words…period.   It is difficult to believe that I have been in this country for eight weeks and that my training is over in less than three.  On November 25^th, we will be sworn in as members of the Peace Corps. Half in jest,  I once suggested to some friends that I would be back home after three months due to failure at the new language. Now it looks like I will be here for quite a while longer. 

This past week was a “big adventure” for my group as we separated and travelled individually to our future work sites to meet the people we will work with for the next two years.  For most of us, this was the first time we had to make our way alone.  On Monday I phoned the woman in Kocani who the municipality and Peace Corps had designated as my counterpart.  This counterpart is the person who will work closely with us and more or less “show us the ropes “as we settle in to our assignments.   This did present an unusual problem as my counterpart speaks and understands very little Englishand my Macedonian skills are far from conversational.  After a troubling attempt at getting our plans down for the next day, I decided to contact a Peace Corp staffer and cry “help”.  I was provided an additional name and number and now there were two assigned to meet me the next day. 

 Tuesday began quite well as taking the “kombi” (a van that serves as a shared taxi) into the city from my village was something I had done many times.  I chose to walk to the bus station from the kombi stop and was at the window ready to buy my ticket to Kochani in a matter a mere 15 minutes or so.  I guess my request for a one way ticket was understood and I even managed to ask from what gate the bus would be leaving.   Nearly three hours later, I arrived in the Kocani bus station and was met immediately as I stepped off the bus by the two employees of the municipality.  Their task on this day was simply to get me to my hotel and let me know of the plans for tomorrow. 
 Checking in to the hotel was a little different than in the states too.  Yes, different is a good way to describe it.  We entered the hotel and walked through a large room that usually hosts weddings.  Up more stairs to a service bar to be checked in by what appeared to be and I later discovered was... the waiter.  He wrote my name in a book, grabbed a key and my bag and up three flights we walked to my room.  There I turned over my passport and he was off.  Tipping is not a custom here and on our budgets that is a good thing.  Surprisingly, there were two members of my volunteer group also at this same hotel.  They were assigned to cities not far from mine and this hotel was located between the two.  At least I would not dine alone!  My Macedonian surprised me once more as I managed to get menus and order what turned out to be a very good dinner.

Wednesday morning a young man from the municipality picked me up at my hotel explaining that my counterpart was busy and that he would bring me to what I will call“city hall”.  I was lead to what will be my “spot” in the office of Local Economic Development which was at a desk right next to my counterpart and across from the department head.  A few additional introductions and I was off to meet the mayor and his second in command. 
 Joined by my two escorts to the hotel and a third municipal employee, we headed out for a tour of the vicinity.  It just happened to be a sunny day in the high 60’s so walking around the city was great. There is a river through the center of town with benches all along and the place seems quite nice.  My first impression was that it is relatively quiet, clean and friendly.  We headed for the town center for coffee at one of the many outdoor cafés that were all quite busy for mid morning on a Wednesday.  Coffee was followed by a trip to a newly relocated town library that was celebrating its grand opening and then back to the municipality.  We reentered through the public access doors into the new addition to the building. This new section is where the citizens go for service.  It appears to be quite well organized and assessable to the citizenry.  Finished here, I told my hosts that I could manage my return and went off to check out a few things on my own.  Later I contacted a teaching volunteer currently assigned here and she was kind enough to meet me and tell me more about the place.  A taxi back to the hotel, dinner with my American associates and a good night’s sleep and I was ready to head back to my temporary home in Romanovste.
  I surprised myself on the taxi ride to the bus station on Thursday by telling the drive that I would be living in his city in a short three weeks and working at the municipality for two years.  The reason for the surprise was that I did this in Macedonian and he understood all I was telling him.  (I know because I checked my books when I returned to see if I had made sense.) Plus he then told me where he had lived and how long he had been back and driving the cab.  Still under no illusion of being able to speak and understand the language to any great degree, it was indeed a small victory.

One long wait at the bus station followed by a multi stop return on a VERY warm bus, and I was back in Kumonovo looking for a taxi to the village and “home”.

I think I am going to like it in Kocani!  I have an idea or two already!